When paint fails, there is a reason, and usually that reason can be traced to human causes. Good paint, uses rightly, does not fail. Thus, it is important for you to be well acquainted with these so called failures and precautionary measures that will prevent them.

ALLIGATORING

(Cracking, checking, hairlining or crazing) - When paint crack in segments looks like alligator's hide or checks in different patterns.

Causes:

• Improper priming
• Re-coating before the previous coat is thoroughly dry.
• Applying a hard-drying material over soft undercoat.
• Contraction and expansion occurs due to moisture and temperature changes. A soft surface yields to this effect while a hard or brittle surface will not.

Prevention:

• Start with a clean, Dry foundation . When a hard undercoat is used, it is highly recommended to finish the surface with the same material.
  
• Apply thin coats and let each coat dry thoroughly.

Repair:

• Thoroughly remove entire checked finish and repaint. [Top]

MILDEW

Discoloration of paint in the form of dark patches. This is commonly found in warm, damp places like the shower room, basements or in food factories.

Causes:

• Growth of parasitic fungus that feeds and grows on the accumulation of dirt o the paint films or oils of the paint itself is contaminated.
  

Prevention:

• Use finishing paint formulated to resist mildew.
  

Repair:

• Stripped and repaint using anti-mildew paints. [Top]

BLISTERING

Bubbles, pimples or blisters forming under paint, either, while drying or more frequently, after the paint is dry.

Causes:

• Spot of moisture or grease trapped under the surface.
• Too many coats applied successively, without allowing complete evaporation of the solvent in the undercoat.
• Direct heat from the sun or heat radiating units close to the painted surface causes expansion of moisture trapped under the paint film.
• Cheap, fast evaporating thinner, insufficient thinner, too high air pressure and dry spraying of undercoats (causing porosity and air pockets in the undercoat film) can cause blistering.
• Faulty construction which might allow moisture or vapor to penetrate the inside of the structure.

Prevention:

• Check compressed air for water regularly. Inspect for oil or water droplets. Do not allow water droplets to dry themselves. Always wipe off visible water to avoid chemical deposits.
• After water sanding, blow off cracks and cervices thoroughly using clean dry compressed air.
• Use good thinner to avoid condensation of atmospheric moisture on the surface.
• Keep air pressure as low as possible consistent with good automization.
  
• Allow metal and paint to come equal temperature, 70 to 90C before painting.
• Apply undercoats in thin wet films, allowing sufficient flash-off time between coats to avoid trapping of solvent.
• Do not apply heat to heavy films that contains volatile solvents.

Repair:

• If damage is extensive and severe, paint must be removed down to the undercoat or metal, depending on the depth of blisters. Repaint.
• In less severe cases, blisters may be sanded out, re-surfaced, sanded and repainted. [Top]

FISH-EYES

(Crawling, poor wetting) - This paint failure occurs when paint fails to flow in an even and continuous film over its undercoat. it separates or breaks, leaving exposed areas of the undercoat

Causes:

• Surface contamination with silicone, wax, grease, oil, detergent, soap or water.
• Attempting to paint over a hard, stick or glossy surface.
• Primed surface is too cold or when moisture or other foreign matter is presented on old surfaces.

Prevention:

• Proper preparation of the surface. Clean the surface with solvent cleaner and use new rags. Do not allow the solvent cleaner to dry by itself but wipedry with clean rags. Avoid touching the cleaned surface with soiled rags or bare hands to eliminate contamination.
• Painting should be done in a well-ventilated areas and should maintain adequate temperatures for good drying conditions.

Repair:

• For slightly affected area, wet sand, let surface dry and then apply another coat.
• For excessively affected areas, strip off paint and repeat basic painting steps. [Top]
  

CHALKING

Powdery residues, similar to chalk powder, are visible and can be wiped off from the surface. Loss of gloss and fading of color is another indication of this type of failure.

Causes:

• Binder disintegration or insufficient binder in the paint film, which allows pigment particles to become loose and easily removed.

Prevention:

• Proper priming of the substrate to counteract or eliminate excessive absorption of the binder by the surface

Repair:

• Sand the chalked surface. Removed excess powdery residues after sanding. Apply an appropriate clear coat to serve s a sealer or barrier coat before applying the desired topcoat. [Top]

SAGGING

(Runs, Curtains) - A heavy film of wet paint that runs down in the shape of irregular sheets like curtains of icicles.

Causes:

• Addition of too much slow-drying thinners.
• Coats applied too heavily.
• Poor spray gun techniques or adjustment. Air pressure excessively low.

Prevention:

• Avoid use of slow drying thinner or reducer. follow paint manufacturer's instruction as to type the amount of reducer.
• Do not apply heavy coats. Rely on thin to medium coats.
• Clean and adjust spraygun to give proper uniform spray pattern. Adjust air pressure and gun settings and technique to compensate for temperature and wheather conditions.

Repair:

• If sag is still wet and another coat can be applied, lightly brush out the sag with a fine Camel-hair-brush and then repaint
• When color coat is completely dry and hard, wet sand the defective area with #400 grit sandpaper, clean surface and let it dry, then repaint. [Top]

Dry Spray

Powdery residues, similar to chalk powder, are visible and can be wiped off from the surface. Loss of gloss and fading of color is another indication of this type of failure.

Causes:

• Binder disintegration or insufficient binder in the paint film, which allows pigment particles to become loose and easily removed.

Prevention:

• Proper priming of the substrate to counteract or eliminate excessive absorption of the binder by the surface.

Repair:

• Sand the chalked surface. Removed excess powdery residues after sanding. Apply an appropriate clear coat to serve s a sealer or barrier coat before applying the desired topcoat. [Top]

Gloss

Poor gloss, bloom, and clouding, deadening, dulling, flatspots, flattening and hazing.

Causes:

• Poor holdout of the undercoat.
• Applying color over contaminated surface and surfacer, not thoroughly dried and hardened.
• Use of poor quality, too fast or incorrect choice of thinner or reducer.
• Mixing improper additives in the paint.
• Drying in closed rooms. Failure to provide sufficient circulation of fresh air to expel solvent fumes.
• Insufficient stirring of undercoat or color.
  
• Drying atmosphere, extremely humid or cold.
• Over-spray.
• Compounding or polishing color coat (topcoat) too soon after application, especially when retarder is used in top coat.
• Using rubbing compound that is too coarse.
• Use of strong detergents, solvent or chemical cleaners on the finish coat.
  
• Insufficient film thickness of the color coat.

Prevention:

• Use undercoat that has sufficient hold out like Anzahl Spray Fillers.
  
• Allow undercoat to harden thoroughly before applying topcoat.
  
• Use the right quality of thinner as recommended by the paint manufacturer
  
• Never add anything to the paint except as approved by the paint manufacturer
  
• Always stir paint thoroughly each time before use.
  
• Applied paint films should have plenty of fresh, clean, warm air circulating while drying.
  
• Do not apply rubbing compounds or polish on a freshly painted surface. Allow enough time for the paint to thoroughly dry and the film to harden, before applying rubbing compounds.
  
• Use compound and polish free of coarse, gritty particles, oily vehicles and strong solvents and chemicals.
  
• Do not wash paint with strong detergents, soap, solvents or chemical cleaners. Use mild detergent and water. Although, this is not a problem with urethanes.
  
• Apply sufficient film thickness of color. Good dry film thickness of color is between 3/4 millimeters and 1.5 millimeters.

Repair:

• After film is quite dry, using a fine compound and light polish can usually bring up gloss.
  
• If polishing as above does not produce the desired gloss, refinishing is necessary.
  [Top]
  

LIFTING

(Puckering, Crinkling) - It is the swelling and raising of paint film.

Causes:

• Solvents in a refinished paint attacking a previously painted surface causes lifting.
  
• Coating applied over surfaces not thoroughly cleaned and sanded.
  
• Sandwiching of an enamel coat between an acrylic or urethane type of material.
  
• Application of topcoat over incompletely cured undercoat.
  
• Too heavy applications of enamel.
  
• Improper, usually insufficient sanding of old color coat.

Prevention:

• Begin with a clean, well-sanded surface.
  
• Undercoats should be of more superior quality than the topcoat.
  
• Avoid heavy coats.
  
• Allow each coat to have enough flash-off time before applying with another coat.
  
• Do not apply topcoat over undercoat that is not completely dry and hard.
  

Repair:

• The only recommended method of repair is to completely remove the lifted area and repaint. [Top]
  

Causes:

• Finishes, which are brittle, tend to chip easily.
  
• Excessive film thickness.
  
• Insufficient adhesion of color to primer or primer to metal.
  

Prevention:

• Use reliable material and carefully follow directions for application.
  
• Avoid excessive film thickness.
  

Repair:

• Mild chipping can usually be touch up by using a small brush to improve appearance and delay rusting.
  
• Severe chipping requires complete refinishing operations. [Top]
  

PEELING

(Poor bonding or adhesion) - The finishing paint loses its adhesion to the undersurface and flakes off, usually in curly flakes or sheets.

Causes:

• Presence of any foreign material on surface prior to painting, such as grease, wax, silicones, oils, rust detergents, etc.
  
• Improper use, or no use of metal conditioner on steel, aluminum or galvanized metal.
  
• Repainting of primer-surfacer without allowing sufficient time for primer to dry.
  
• Insufficient sanding of surface before painting.
  
• Application of coating to surface which is too hot or too cold.
  
• Application is too thick

Prevention:

• Use good housekeeping methods, keep shop clean. Do not spray in the same room where any other work is being done.
  
• Reduce air pressure and use good thinner to avoid excessive spray dust.
  
• Stir color properly and thoroughly. If color is settled to a point where pigment is left at a bottom of the can, pour out all liquid in to a clean container. Then, thoroughly mix settled pigment to a consistency, and slowly add the original liquid with constant stirring.
  
• Reduce to spraying consistency by adding the correct thinner slowly while stirring.
  
• Strain reduced material through finest strainer possible. Do not poke or scrape strainer.
  

Repair:

• Dirt in acrylic or urethane topcoats can easily be polished with rubbing compounds.
  
• Severe peeling requires complete refinishing. [Top]

ORANGE PEEL

Surface of coating resembles the skin of an orange.

Causes:

• Spraying over a surface contaminated with wax, grease and silicone.
  
• Insufficient reduction of paint.
  
• Using wrong type, or poor grade of thinner or reducer.
  
• Improper adjustment of spray gun. Holding spray gun too far or too close from the surface.

Prevention:

• Clean surface completely free of wax, oil and silicone. Use solvent cleaner.
  
• Use thinner and reducer as recommended by the paint manufacturer.
  
• Clean and adjust spray gun properly and use lowest air pressure that will give good atomization.
  
• Use a good spray gun technique. Hold spray gun 6 to 10 inches from the surface and always keep it at a right angle to the area being sprayed.
  
• Environment and surface should be at normal temperature, preferably between 70 and 90 F.

Repair:

• After color has thoroughly hardened, rub out orange peel with fine compound and polish.
  
• If condition is very bad, wet sand with #400 sandpaper and re-spray. [Top]

WRINKLING

Crinkling of the paint film.

Causes:

• Rapid drying of top surface while the underneath remains soft.
  
• Any condition that leads to thick films will tend to cause wrinkling. See SAGGING.
  
• Any condition that produces a lifting tendency will often initiate or aggravate wrinkling, therefore see LIFTING
  
• Many conditions that produce slow drying tend to produce wrinkling, See DRYING
  
• Spraying in a hot sun or exposing surface to sunshine before enamel is thoroughly dry.
  
• Force drying of some enamels without use of baking converter.

Prevention:

• Avoid all conditions that may lead to RUNS, LIFTING, and slow DRYING.
  
• At all cost, avoid application of abnormally thick film in one application.
  
• If possible, avoid spraying in abnormally hot, humid weather.
  
• Do not put water on freshly painted enamel job, especially if surface is warm.
  

Repair:

• The only recommended coarse of action is to remove wrinkled film and repaint properly.
  
• A trick used by some painter is to bake out or allow the wrinkled finish to thoroughly harden. A synthetic primer surface is then applied. After complete drying, the film is then water sanded with #320 grit of sandpaper, allowed to dry, then repainted with the color. this method often eliminates the necessity for complete removal of the wrinkled film, but result is not always guaranteed. This is only for a quick remedial process.[Top]